“Nopi” stands for “North of Picadilly,” the London neighborhood where Ottolenghi—famed for books such as Jerusalem and Plenty More, as well as a chain of casual London eateries bearing his name—also has a stylish, more upscale establishment with Scully as the chef. The food frequently draws on the same Middle Eastern sources of inspiration as Ottolenghi’s earlier books, but the presentation is more elegant and the use of flavor is more daring: smoked lamb chops with eggplant pureé, jalapeño sauce, and kohlrabi pickle; lentil and pickled shallot salad with berbere croutons; baked blue cheesecake with pickled beets and honey. If you’ve got a few Ottolenghi books and are wondering if you need another, our bet is that this book will seem very fresh while retaining the je ne sais quoi that made the originals so captivating.
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