Andaza: A Memoir of Food, Flavour and Freedom in the Pakistani Kitchen

Sumayya Usmani’s mother, grandmothers, and aunts cooked by andaza, “which translates as ‘estimation’, but really encompasses what I like to think of as the art of sensory cooking. Even as a child I was fascinated by the idea that a recipe could turn out differently when it was cooked by someone else, that we all had a different ‘flavour in our hands’ that made a dish unique to us.”

In this moving cookbook threaded through with memoir, Usmani recounts her growth as a cook and as a person, navigating through cultural and familial expectations, moved by a need to discover what sort of flavor was in her own hands. There are vivid memories of strong figures in her life–the grandmother who told her “Because I am an old woman, I can enjoy things that aren’t good for me–but also, I rarely listen to anyone about most things!”–and heartbreaking losses.

Recipes include:

• Nani Mummy's prawn karahi
• Potatoes with curry leaves and turmeric
• Chicken boti tikka, Bundoo Khan style
• Mummy's wedding-style chicken korma
• Bitter lemon, mustard seed and garlic pullao
• Dadi's banana and fennel seed gulgulay doughnut

Hardcover. Color photographs throughout.