OP: The Artful Eater (paperback)

Atlantic Monthly Press, 1992. Paperback. Near Fine.

Writing from his home in a remote section of northern Vermont, Edward Behr (1951–  ) has long served his devoted readership as a fiercely independent arbiter of taste—in the most fundamental sense of the word.

Although far from being an academic, he definitely has a scholarly bent. Well-read, well-traveled, and meticulous in his historical research, Behr selects a subject—a dish, a process, or, most often, an ingredient—and examines it with an intensity that is truly awe-inspiring.

His self-published newsletter, The Art of Eating, which appeared in 1987 and remained in print form until 2015, was widely lauded for its conscientiousness and its authority. It has continued to be issued as an online publication since and is still highly regarded.

This collection of pieces from the earlier days of the newsletter contains eighteen skillfully crafted essays on subjects ranging from salt and eggs to sorrel, vanilla, and aged country hams. Tomatoes, too, and bay leaves, mussels, and even a tantalizing closer called, simply, “A Cup of Coffee.”

The attractive volume was published in 1992 by the Atlantic Monthly Press, with appealing illustrations by the author. Our copy is the paperback edition, unused though showing some wear from long shelving. Near Fine, overall.