Prunier par Alleno

First opened in 1924 as a showcase for the eponymous caviar brand, Prunier, on Avenue Victor Hugo in Paris, is a jewel box of Art Deco ornamentation which has recently been taken over by one of France’s leading chefs, Yannick Alleno.

Bringing renewed vigor to the restaurant’s seafood-centric offerings, Alleno presents a mix of historically significant dishes as well as his own creations, all of them plated with a minimalist restraint in contrast to the dining room’s intricate dazzle.

You’ll find here simple, elegant dishes such as sole à la meunière, or sea bass with celery and caviar.  But there are also imaginative flourishes such as mullet and mackerel in a bouillabaisse gelée, a brioche stuffed with lobster, and veal tartar with fried oysters.

The book is something of a tribute to Prunier’s history, so there are frequent diversions to explore its famous patrons, the artists who crafted its interior, and the suppliers who provision it today.

An intriguing mix of past and present.