The Quality Chop House: Modern Recipes and Stories from a London Classic

A longtime stalwart of the London dining scene, which went through stages as varied as a cafe for the working class, a celebrity hangout, and a fast-casual meatball shop, The Quality Chop House was revived in 2012 by a group of young chefs inspired by Fergus Henderson of St. John and other good London dining spots.

The restaurant they have created has its own distinct character, marked by a dedication to simply prepared food but not so determinedly English that it ignores good ingredients and good ideas just because they spring from other lands.

So on the menu (and certainly in this book) you can find a smoked eel tartine with brown crab mayonaise, smoked chili ketchup, and crispy shallots. Or perhaps you'd be enticed by a chilled lovage soup with gorgonzola, asparagus, and grapes. And then move on to a slow-roasted lamb shoulder.

There's a comforting, hearty aspect to the fare that doesn't feel a bit retrograde. A nice balance, indeed.

Hardcover. Color photographs throughout.